Here are some photos on the way home:

Flying in to London. You can see the Tower Bridge on the Thames.

"Look kids, Big Ben. . . Parliament" (Name that movie)

Sign at the OKC airport!

I know it's blurry, but what's nicer than an image of your kids running to greet you?

It's good to be home!

Check back once in a while for updates!

Mark

I had to take a train from the airport to Vienna and then the U-Bahn (subway) to the Stephansplatz where my hotel is located.  I had to do this with all my luggage in tow!

I was so very happy to check in to the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth.  It is very close to St. Stephen’s Square and tucked away into a side street off the Kanter Strasse (walking street).  Past guests at this establishment have been:  W.A. Mozart, Franz Liszt, Richard Wagner, and Edvard Grieg.  I’m guessing they didn’t book their stays on Orbitz like I did.

Hotel Kasierin Elisabeth Lobby

I was hungry when I arrived at noon so I went the best place in Vienna (at least in my book), La Piazza!  This time Marcello talked me into trying something new, rather than the pizza I’ve had the last two times.

Spaghetti with clams and tomatoes

I then came back to my air conditioned room at the hotel.  Yes, I said air conditioned!!!  It was all I could do to tear myself away from the first soft bed and cool room I’ve had in two weeks but I decided I’d better get my money’s worth of Vienna.  And I did.

After a short walk around Stephansplatz I walked down Graben strasse and then to the Hofburg Palace.  I mentioned it in a previous post.  It was the Hapsburg Dynasty’s main palace in Vienna.  Now it houses museums.

Hofburg Palace

I knew museums and the opera house would be open on Sunday, so I saved these two places for today.  The first place I visited was inside the palace at the museum of ancient instruments.

Museum of ancient instruments

The museum includes many instruments that were not necessarily “ancient” as much as historically significant.

This piano originally belonged to Clara Wieck and Robert Schumann.  After Robert’s death the piano was given to Johannes Brahms.

The two instruments on the far right belonged to Beethoven and are displayed here with a portrait of him as a child.

The museum was well worth the price of admission.  But I was ready to walk a bit until touring the historic Vienna Opera House.  On the walk I ran across a funny site in one of the U-Bahn stations.

Opera toilet (with music!)

A nice park was on my walk from the museum quarter to the opera house.  A statue honoring Mozart was in the park.

It was in the park that I purchased a small watercolor painting of the Vienna Opera House for 10 Euro.  The picture I took below is of the same view as the watercolor.

I was in luck.  An english-speaking guided tour of the opera house was about to begin so I jumped in line.  I mentioned before that much of the opera house, originally built in the late 1800s, was destroyed by fire after being bombed in WW II.  A small percentage of the original house remains, including the staircase.

Jeanne and I had the opportunity to see the opera “Carmen” here ten years ago when we were in Vienna for a couple of days after getting engaged.  It’s a beautiful place as you can see from the photos below.

In the picture below you can see the “standing room only” stalls in the center back.  That’s where Jeanne and I got very inexpensive tickets to the opera 10 years ago.

The tour included a look backstage.

After the opera house it was a brief stroll back to the hotel where I am now at 6 p.m.  I’m extremely tired and not looking forward to getting up so early to get on a flight in the morning.  I will have to leave the hotel at about 4:45 a.m. in order to catch the U-Bahn to the train station, then on to the airport to check in 2 hours ahead of my flight.

I connect in London, where I have a two hour layover and then a 10 hour flight to Houston.  My trip finally concludes sometime after 7 p.m. Monday evening when I finally get to see Jeanne and the boys at the airport.  That is. . . unless they need someone to give up their seats on the flight home!  Keep checking your text messages Jeanne, just in case ;-}

After all the beautiful things I saw today I have to say my favorite is the one below:

A/C unit in the hotel!!!

Thanks again for your support and comments on the blog.  I imagine I’ll update it some in the future but it won’t be every day.  Check back if you’re interested in the Lucas family!

Auf Wiedersehn

Mark

Today is a holiday in Austria.  To the best of my knowledge it is the Day of Ascension but I’m not really sure of that.  The good news was that we were able to participate in a mass at the Bergkirche (see previous posts for pictures of this beautiful church) by singing Haydn’s Theresienmesse during the service.  The bad news was that all the local stores were closed!

My view from the balcony during mass

After the service was completed the priest had us all come downstairs to be recognized by the congregation.

From the front. You can see our position in the balcony in the upper left-hand corner of the picture.

As soon as mass was complete the members of the church gave us lunch.  We appreciated it, but I ended up getting lunch elsewhere today ;-}

Open-faced sandwich with ham, egg, tomato, and pickle.

Big G and I decided to complete our shopping at the few stores that were open, after enjoying some Spaghetti Bolognese at the “Pizza Boy” restaurant.  The picture below is the view of Schloss Esterhazy from the “Pizza Boy.”

Big G and I finally wrapped up our shopping and headed back to the hotel.  Then it was a brief nap and some packing of the suitcases before the farewell party at the Hotel Ohr.

Many great new friends in this picture!

The pictures below are just a sampling of some of the wonderful people that participated in the 2009 Classical Music Festival.

The crew from Skaget College in Washington. Great kids!

"Silk" (part of the crew) and Dagmar (alto soloist)

Petin (part of the crew) and Michelle (soprano soloist)

Dr. Moses, Rick, and Big G

As I write this post I am realizing that it may be my last of the trip.  Tomorrow morning buses leave Eisenstadt for Vienna to take participants to the airport for their various flights back to the U.S. or wherever they are going.  I will be staying an extra day in Vienna.  It was less expensive to get a flight back a day later and I will have an opportunity to spend a little more time in Vienna.

So I will be taking the late bus (10:00 a.m.) to the Vienna Airport where I’ll then take the train into the city and check in at my hotel, the Hotel Kaiserin Elisabeth.  I dropped by the hotel when I was in Vienna the other day and it is a very upscale place.  I only wish I’d have more time to enjoy it.  But my flight on Monday leaves here at 7:55 a.m.  I connect in London and then Houston before returning to OKC at about 7 p.m. on Monday night.

I am looking forward to seeing Jeanne and the boys.  I have missed them so much while I have been gone.  I will certainly blog from the hotel in Vienna if there is WIFI access but I am not sure if there will be.

I want to take a moment to thank all of you that have followed my journey on this trip.  I have received an average of 100 hits per day on the blog and a couple of days it went to nearly 200!  I started the blog just to be in contact with my family but I realized that my “extended” family from church, friends, etc. . . is much bigger.  And it makes me feel good to know that I have so many friends that are supportive of me.

Again, this trip has been magnificent and I cannot wait to return with Jeanne and students from OU!

Boomer!

Big G and I decided we had two missions this afternoon:  1.  Finish our shopping for our family and friends, and 2.  Be tourists in Eisenstadt.  There are a ton of spots in this town that we haven’t had time to visit yet.  So today we did it.

First was the Haydnhaus, where Haydn lived for 12 years while working for the Esterhazy family.

Haydnhaus

Next we decided to do some shopping for presents.  I can’t show you any pictures of us shopping because the gifts we bought are surprises for some of you that are reading this.  But I can show you a picture of Big G riding a train on the main walking street!

Big G riding the train

We did quite a bit of shopping before we hit our next tourist attraction, which was the tour of the wine cellar at the Schloss Esterhazy.  This is a palace we’ve been rehearsing and performing inside for the entire time we’ve been here but we haven’t yet had time to do some of the touristy things.  The Esterhazy Family has had a winery for hundreds of years and until recently the cellar has been in the basement of the palace.

This is just a sampling of what they still have in the cellar

To give you an idea of how big the casks were that they held the wine in, I had Big G stand next to one of them.  Please remember that Big G is sort of a small guy.

Big G and wine cask

After the tour we got a bite to eat at the “Pizza Boy” just near the Schloss Esterhazy.  Excellent food, Italian of course.  Then we attended the piano version of “The Seven Last Words” by Haydn.  The pianist was excellent and it was a real treat to be able to hear the third of the four versions.  On the way back to the palace Big G decided to try his hand at being a palace guard:

A little side sidenote, I found this picture of the Haydnsaal while on our tour today and thought it was interesting:

Haydnsaal without chairs

OK, where was I? Well it was time to get ready for our Friday night Gala Concert.  This is the concert in the Haydnsaal where all the big wigs in the area show up in nice clothes to hear us perform.

This is us lining up for the concert:

Lining up in the courtyard for the Gala Concert.

The concert was the best we have done.  There was a reception for us afterwards:

Friends at the reception after the concert

OK, total honesty here. . . it’s 11 p.m. in Austria and we just finished our biggest concert of the entire festival.  I have been sitting in the hall to do this blog but have been a little distracted (see below)

That's my chair and computer

And this is just a sampling of the folks that have dropped by while I’ve been composing this post.  So please forgive me if there are major mistakes.  I’ll fix them tomorrow.  For tonight, we’re all happy to have completed such an important concert.

Gotta go, Jeanne is contacting me on iChat.

Mark

This festival includes more than simply the major works our choir is performing with the orchestra (Theresienmesse and The Seven Last Words Oratorio Version).  It also includes many concerts of chamber music given by participants at the festival.

One of the major portions of the repertoire this year is “Die Sieben Letzen Wortze (The Seven Last Words).”  Haydn wrote four versions of this piece of music, in which he uses music to depict Jesus on the cross.  The four versions are for:  1.  String Quartet, 2.  Orchestra only, 3. Piano only, 4. Oratorio version with Chorus and Orchestra.  At this year’s Classical Music Festival we are performing all four versions. The oratorio version includes “intonations,” or very brief, four part, hymn-like, introductions to each movement.  Rick asked an octet of us to provide these intonations for the String Quartet version in between movements this afternoon.

The concert was at the Bergkirche.

Bergkirche in Eisenstadt

We performed our brief portion in between movements and from the balcony.

Us in the balcony. That open space is where I stood.

Our view from the balcony during rehearsal

After rehearsal I walked back to the hotel with Vlad and James.  Of course we had to stop off for an Eiskaffe.  Then I had some time to do some shopping and picked up something for my mom and something cool for the boys.  Still having difficulty finding something for Jeanne but I’ll keep trying!

Sorry Bobbi, haven’t found anything for you just yet ;-}

Before the String Quartet concert (4 p.m.) I took a tour of the Bergkirche.  I know I’ve mentioned it a bunch of times but this was Haydn’s church and also contains his mausoleum.  It also has an extremely interesting portion of the building dedicated to artistic depictions of the 24 Stations of the Cross (yes, 24!).  The stations are each depicted with sculptures.  The path begins deep in the bottom of the church and concludes at the very top.  I’m including a few photos here, but you really have to see it in person.

Final station at the top of the church

The view into the main area of Eisenstadt from the top of the Bergkirche

Another beautiful view

The concert was a great success, the first of the performances in Eisenstadt of the four versions of Haydn’s “Seven Last Words of Christ on the Cross.”  The packed audience gave the performers four curtain calls, and we were recognized from the balcony.  After this I was tired but went with Vlad to a nearby Heuriger (with a great view) for supper.  I had sausage, surprised?

And then it was a nice leisurely walk back to the hotel where I am now sitting in the hallway with Big G (who went to Vienna today) updating my blog.  This guy is pretty fun to hang out with.  Right now he’s playing DJ with his computer, playing all the greatest hits of the 70s and 80s with some other tunes mixed in (although I’m not sure I can handle Barry Manilow, Big G).

Time to sign off for the night.  Looking forward to being home and seeing everyone!

The gang at the Haydnbrau

Big G somehow found  a way to get a liter sized brew.  I’ve got to tell you, we’ve been here just over a week and already when we walk down the main street locals call out, “Hey, Big G!”  He’s a good guy to know!

Prost!

After the Haydnbrau Big G talked me into going to “Ricky’s,” and internet cafe and bar for a game of pool.  I tried to call upon the various tricks my Granddad taught me about playing pool but “G” was just too good.  I tried to upload the phot here but it just kept uploading upside-down.  I left Big G at Ricky’s to continue playing pool so I could come back to the room and get ready for an early morning.

Somehow I think he’ll be alright.  Everyone in Eisenstadt knows him and is looking out for him!

The funny thing is, this is a picture of a postcard I took with my iPhone!

Near the city of Fochenstein, this was an important fortress for the Esterhazy family.  This guy evidently lived there:

He had 26 kids, and was always at war with someone.

From the middle ages until the 19th century the Hapsburg Empire was at war with someone.  Usually it was the Ottomans (Turks) or, later, the French.  Side note:   Napoleon took Vienna in 1809 and it is legend that he respected Joesph Haydn’s music so much that he stationed two armed French guards outside Haydn’s home so that no French troops would hurt him.  Ironically it was the year he died.

Watch out, here come the Turks!

We were allowed to tour the castle with an english-speaking guide.  She did a great job of explaining the history of the castle and the region.

There were lots of guns.

Big guns!

A couple of other views of the castle:

After the sightseeing we headed back to Eisenstadt where Vlad and I shared lunch at an Italian place.  I’m telling you, the Italian food here is amazing!  Big G didn’t make the castle trip.  Instead he explored the Gloriette area behind the Schloss Esterhazy.  But he and I are getting ready to head out to the Haydnbrau to help one of our singers celebrate his birthday.  There are students, faculty, parents, etc. . . here from the University of South Florida and Skaget College in Washington state, as well as players from all over the world.  Next year I hope to have a large contingent of OU students here to enjoy this wonderful experience!

Tjus!

Die Graben strasse

Graben strasse, as I mentioned, is just off St. Stephen’s Platz.  St. Stephen’s is the church we sang at last Sunday.  It was heavily bombed (accidentally) by the U.S. and Britain during WW II until an American commander finally told the bomber pilots to avoid it, and other landmarks, at all costs.

A view of St. Stephen's from Die Graben

The city was much busier today than when we visited Sunday.  Most shops are closed on Sundays and Mondays so I tried to get some shopping done while I could.  As I was walking the side streets I realized that when I got my picture taken by the Mozarthaus on Sunday I was on the wrong side of the house.  By wandering onto the adjacent side street I was able to pay a small fee and actually tour the house where Mozart lived while writing “The Marriage of Figaro” as well as his “Requiem.”

This is the view Mozart would have had when he came home from being out. Although it may have been a little more "blurry" for him ;-}

The view from his "game room" where he would have held chamber recitals with friends, including Haydn.

The view from the street, looking up at the window from the previous picture.

After the Mozarthaus I needed something to eat.  I probably should have visited a new place but I was really hungry and didn’t want wiener schnitzel so I headed back to La Piazza where Big G and Vlad and I had eaten on Sunday.  It was only a block or two away from the Mozarthaus.

La Piazza

While there I had the opportunity to see Marcello again (I think I called him Marco in a previous post).  I was predictable and had the exact same meal as I did Sunday:  Pizza with Salame und Champions (pepperoni and mushrooms).  It hit the spot!

Good lunch!

Now is when my REAL adventure began.  I had decided I wanted to visit the suburb of Heiligenstadt.  If you’ve ever had to take Music History you remember Beethoven’s Heiligenstadt Testament.  He wrote it in 1802 when he realized he was beginning to lose his hearing.  The testament, really a letter to his brother, is a heart wrenching account of his sadness at losing the one thing he felt he needed in order to fulfill his musical destiny.  Fortunately for us he continued writing music even though he had severe hearing loss.  In fact he wrote many of his major works after 1802, including the 5th and 9th symphonies.

So I just couldn’t resist tracking down the place he lived when he wrote the Heiligenstadt Testament.  But when I say it was in the suburbs I mean it was WAY out there.  I took the U-Bahn (subway) to the suburb of Heiligenstadt where I had to then take the number 38 A bus to the residence.  Did I mention I’ve been picking up a little of the German language while here?  It was a good thing because I had to have the bus driver tell me when to get off the bus and then give me directions.  It still took 30 minutes of wandering around before I found the place.  Now if you know me you know how much I enjoy history.  The next few hours were profound.  To walk where Beethoven walked.  Where he wrote the 2nd symphony.  The 6th (Pastoral) symphony.  Amazing.

Bust of Beethoven in the Heiligenstadt Testament Haus

A side note for you music geeks:  It rained heavily during my 30 minute walk around Heiligenstadt looking for the place.  Once I entered the house they were playing his 6th symphony (Pastoral).  For you non music geeks this is one of the first pieces of instrumental music to follow something of a program, i.e. each movement of the symphony had a title.  Pastoral refers to nature.  One of the rousing movements includes a section where the music clearly indicates a storm, complete with thunder, etc. . . Upon entering the house that exact movement was being played while the storm outside was raging.  I looked at the elderly lady at the desk and said, “Die Sturm,” and pointed to the speakers and then outside.  She just laughed and said, “ja, die Sturm!”

This woman, at the Beethoven house, was VERY helpful.

I had heard that Gustav Mahler was buried nearby so I asked the woman at the desk.  She spoke very good english, which is a little unusual, usually I try to find younger people because they are more likely to know english.  She told me about a walking path nearby that Beethoven used to use.  In fact it was supposedly the path he took that inspired the 6th symphony.  It is now called Beethoven Way (and is just off Eroica street if you believe that, music geeks!).

The creek on Beethoven way

The nice lady at the Heiligenstadt Testament Haus gave me good directions on how to walk Beethoven’s path and then where to find the bus to Grinzing, where the cemetery is that Mahler is buried.  Unfortunately I got caught up in the walk and ended up walking all the way to Grinzing without taking the bus!  It had to have been 2-3 miles easily.

Beethoven's landscape. The walk from Heiligenstadt to Grinzing.

It was only by chance that I happened to realize I was already IN Grinzing as I was at the bus stop.  I found a local and asked, “Wo ist die Friedhof?” and he directed me to the cemetery.  Gustav Mahler was a composer in the late 1800s and early 1900s whose music I love.  Because he was Jewish he could not be buried in the cemetery we visited Sunday (where we saw Beethoven’s and Brahm’s graves).   I bought his 2nd symphony at Marie Muller’s garage sale in Lindsborg when I was in high school and came to love it.  Only one problem, there was no one at the cemetery to give directions, and it was HUGE.  So I literally walked around the entire cemetery for about an hour until I found his grave.

Mahler's grave

Well here I was.  I had walked and walked and walked some more and I was about as far from Vienna as you can get via the subway and buses.  So I did the best thing I could think of.  I found a Heuriger and had supper.

Grinzing Heuriger

I figured that if this place was good enough for former President Clinton it was good enough for me!

President Clinton ist ein Grinzinger!

Needless to say it was a long haul back to Vienna in order to catch the 7:25 p.m. bus back to Eisenstadt but I made it.  I am now planning to go to sleep!

I’m not even sure what tomorrow’s plan is but I will be there with bells on.  This has been an amazing trip.  I only wish Jeanne and the boys were here with me (and Maggie!).  Can’t wait to see them!

Great day!

After rehearsal it was time to enjoy another Heuriger.  If I didn’t explain it earlier a Heuriger is a restaurant connected to a vineyard.  They are only open at certain times.  I don’t even know the name of tonight’s Heuriger but the food was excellent.  See pics below.

Tomorrow is our day off and I have chosen to forego the planned sidetrips (one is to Budapest and another to the Wachau Valley) in order to go back in to Vienna.  So it’s only 9:30 p.m. here but I’m getting ready to head off to bed. I’ll post pics of the trip tomorrow!

USF students at supper

This was a local guy who had had a few too many glasses of wine. Nice socks!

Here he is talking to Jay

Fun at the Heuriger

We boarded the bus at 7:30 a.m. at traveled to Vienna to participate in high mass at St. Stephen’s Cathedral.  I mentioned before that this is the seat of the Catholic Church in Austria.  It is an amazing structure full of history, both musical and otherwise.  It, like most all buildings in Vienna, was heavily bombed during WW II.  Luckily the Cathedral withstood the attacks for the most part, unlike many other structures.  St. Paul in London was the same way.

The back side of St. Stephen's

I didn’t have time to get a good photo of the front but I will be returning to Vienna on our off day.  The inside is amazing, and reminiscent of some of the other major cathedrals of Europe (St. Paul’s, Notre Dame).

Taken from about the middle of the church, looking toward the alter.

Front of church

When looking at this picture (above), the choir and orchestra was seated stage left (on the right in this picture).  It was cramped and hot but wonderful.

Most of Austria is Catholic and our participation was to sing the portions of the mass at the appropriate times.  For example, the priest would intone the chant and then we would sing the Kyrie from the particular mass we were singing, in this case Haydn’s Theresienmesse (or 1799 mass).  In between musical movements of the mass the priests spoke, i.e. reading the Gospel, etc. . . then it would be our turn to sing another movement.  Communion was taken during the Agnus Dei and the Catholic members of our choir were able to take communion once we had finished singing that movement.  I found it interesting that one of the people helping the priests (I think there were 4 priests) was a woman, who was at the alter with them the entire service and did the announcements.  Once the announcements were finished the organist played a short postlude after which the entire congregation turned toward us and applauded for a quite a long time.

After the mass we had about 3 hours in Vienna to get lunch and do a little sight-seeing.

This is a house in which Mozart lived for 3 years.

Vlad, Big G, and I found a little pizza place to sit down for some lunch.  It turned out to be a great find.  Our waiter was “Marco” who hit it off with Big G right away.

Marco with my pizza

While Marco, who is originally from Turkey, was preparing to snap a picture of the three of us his phone rang.  It was his wife, so he gave the phone to me to speak with her while he finished taking the picture.  Our conversation was brief since I know only a bit of German and no Turkish.

After lunch we still had a couple of hours so Vlad and I decided to take a bus tour of the city.  It was only about $15 and went around to all the major sites near the city center in about an hour.

A couple of tourists

One of the stops on the bus was the Hapsburg Palace.  The Hapsburgs were the ruling family of Austria for (I think) approximately 500 years.  In 1918, after WW I, Austria was forced to sign an agreement to end the monarchy, thus ending the Hapsburg reign.

Just a portion of the grounds. Not too shabby!

Back on the bus. A random picture of a garden.

The bus tour was worth every penny if only to highlight some of the things I would like to see more indepth when I return on our free day.  Some of the festival participants traveled to Mahler’s grave.  That’s something I plan to do next time.

Our place to meet the bus was next to the Vienna Opera House so Vlad and I chose to enjoy the 45 minutes we had left by sitting down at the local cafe and having a bite and a cup of coffee.  Vlad got an Eiskaffe, which is coffee poured over ice cream and topped off with whipped cream.  I got an espresso and the most fabulous piece of chocolate pastry I’ve ever seen.  Yes Kelly, more food pictures!

Vienna Opera House

Vlad and his Eiskaffe

This one's for you, Kelly!

Eventually we boarded the bus and started back to Eisenstadt.  But luckily there was one more brief stop planned.  The main cemetery outside Vienna is the final resting place for many famous composers, including Beethoven, Strauss, and Brahms.  We had about 30 minutes to visit the graves of these composers.

Brahms' grave

There is a church inside the cemetery that was simply beautiful.  When we entered there was an older woman, probably Austrian, singing in both English and German.  It was amazing to witness this because her voice was nothing to write home about (ironic isn’t it that I’m doing just that) but her faith was clearly evident in what she was doing.  If I have time I will try to post a video of it on my Facebook.

Church at the cemetery

Ceiling at the cemetery church

Then is was simply a short bus ride back to Eisenstadt and the Hotel WIFI where Big G (who is a chef) is currently cooking me veal and knockwurst with pasta.  I have all the luck don’t I?

Best,

Mark

Edit:  It’s now 8:30 p.m. here (1:30 p.m. Oklahoma time) and we just finished Big G’s feast.  This guy knows his way around a kitchen!  Knockwurst with saurkraut, rigatoni with homemade saunce (including all the spices he found in the kitchen plus veal).  Great end to a great day.  Big G is “da man!”

Big G's cooking.

I am staying on the 2nd floor and happily live next to a group of singers/players from Taiwan.  Big G lives on the 1st floor but used our floor’s kitchen.  As soon as the Taiwanese smelled Big G’s cooking they were in the kitchen.  Of course he invited them right in and made sure there was enough for everyone.  Before long a couple of other guys dropped by and ate.  Here’s a picture of only a few of the people present at the feast.

Big G and (a small portion of) his band of admirers!